The City of Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Grapes in Urban Spaces

Every 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel-powered railway carriage arrives at a graffiti-covered station. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm pierces the almost continuous road noise. Daily travelers hurry past falling apart, ivy-covered fencing panels as storm clouds form.

This is perhaps the last place you anticipate to find a well-established vineyard. But one local grower has cultivated 40 mature vines heavy with round mauve grapes on a sprawling garden plot sandwiched between a row of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just above the city downtown.

"I've seen individuals concealing illegal substances or whatever in the shrubbery," says the grower. "But you just get on with it ... and keep tending to your grapevines."

Bayliss-Smith, 46, a filmmaker who runs a kombucha drinks business, is among several local vintner. He has organized a informal group of growers who make vintage from several discreet urban vineyards tucked away in back gardens and allotments across Bristol. It is too clandestine to possess an formal title yet, but the collective's messaging chat is named Grape Expectations.

Urban Wine Gardens Around the Globe

To date, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the sole location listed in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming world atlas, which features better-known urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred vines on the hillsides of the French capital's renowned Montmartre area and more than three thousand grapevines overlooking and within the Italian city. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the forefront of a movement reviving urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing nations, but has discovered them all over the world, including cities in East Asia, Bangladesh and Central Asia.

"Grape gardens help cities stay greener and ecologically varied. These spaces preserve open space from development by establishing permanent, yielding farming plots inside cities," explains the organization's leader.

Similar to other vintages, those produced in urban areas are a result of the soils the vines thrive in, the unpredictability of the weather and the people who tend the grapes. "Each vintage embodies the beauty, community, landscape and heritage of a city," adds the president.

Unknown Polish Variety

Back in the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a urgent timeline to harvest the vines he grew from a cutting left in his garden by a Polish family. If the precipitation comes, then the pigeons may seize their chance to feast once more. "Here we have the mystery Polish variety," he says, as he cleans bruised and mouldy berries from the shimmering bunches. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they are certainly disease-resistant. Unlike noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and other famous European varieties – you need not treat them with pesticides ... this could be a unique cultivar that was bred by the Soviets."

Collective Efforts Throughout Bristol

Additional participants of the collective are also taking advantage of bright periods between showers of fall precipitation. On the terrace overlooking the city's shimmering waterfront, where historic trading ships once floated with barrels of wine from France and Spain, Katy Grant is harvesting her rondo grapes from approximately 50 vines. "I love the aroma of these vines. The scent is so reminiscent," she remarks, stopping with a basket of grapes slung over her arm. "It's the scent of Provence when you open the vehicle windows on holiday."

Grant, 52, who has spent over two decades working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, unexpectedly took over the grape garden when she returned to the UK from East Africa with her family in recent years. She experienced an strong responsibility to maintain the grapevines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This plot has previously survived three different owners," she says. "I deeply appreciate the concept of environmental care – of handing this down to future caretakers so they keep cultivating from this land."

Sloping Vineyards and Traditional Production

Nearby, the remaining cultivators of the group are hard at work on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has cultivated more than 150 plants perched on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the silty local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, gesturing towards the interwoven vineyard. "They can't believe they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."

Currently, the filmmaker, 60, is harvesting bunches of deep violet Rondo grapes from rows of plants slung across the hillside with the assistance of her child, Luca. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to streaming service's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's gardening shows, was motivated to cultivate vines after observing her neighbour's grapevines. She's discovered that hobbyists can make interesting, pleasurable natural wine, which can command prices of more than £7 a glass in the growing number of establishments focusing on minimal-intervention vintages. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can actually make quality, traditional vintage," she says. "It is quite on trend, but really it's resurrecting an old way of making vintage."

"During foot-stomping the grapes, all the wild yeasts come off the skins into the juice," says the winemaker, partially submerged in a container of tiny stems, seeds and red liquid. "That's how wines were made traditionally, but commercial producers introduce sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the wild yeast and subsequently incorporate a commercially produced culture."

Challenging Environments and Inventive Solutions

A few doors down active senior Bob Reeve, who motivated his neighbor to establish her vines, has assembled his companions to pick white wine varieties from one hundred plants he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. The former teacher, a northern English PE teacher who taught at Bristol University developed a passion for viticulture on annual sporting trips to France. However it is a difficult task to cultivate this particular variety in the dampness of the valley, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to produce Burgundian wines here, which is somewhat ambitious," says Reeve with amusement. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and very sensitive to mildew."

"My goal was creating Burgundian wines in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"

The unpredictable local weather is not the only challenge encountered by winegrowers. Reeve has had to erect a fence on

Elizabeth Chaney
Elizabeth Chaney

Elara is a digital artist and designer passionate about blending traditional techniques with modern technology to create stunning visuals.